First, to answer that some can shoot both 5.56 NATO and .223 Remington in their gun without problems, some guns are chambered for both and some are overbuilt anyway. The problems tend occur after years of mixing as the real concern involves different pressures which are manifested by the very minor design differences. I have a 20" Wylde on mine but that came after doing a lot of research. This weekend after adjusting my Leopold scope I was knocking out the 10 ring at a hundred yards so consistently I got bored and went back to shooting my 4" .38 Combat Special at 25 yards. I hope the following helps with your decision.
Thanks for the info; I also noted after doing a bit of research that while externally the same, the spec for 5.56 calls out a slightly smaller internal volume (slightly thicker case walls?), which could result in a slightly increased internal pressure.First, to answer that some can shoot both 5.56 NATO and .223 Remington in their gun without problems, some guns are chambered for both and some are overbuilt anyway. The problems tend occur after years of mixing as the real concern involves different pressures which are manifested by the very minor design differences. I have a 20" Wylde on mine but that came after doing a lot of research. This weekend after adjusting my Leopold scope I was knocking out the 10 ring at a hundred yards so consistently I got bored and went back to shooting my 4" .38 Combat Special at 25 yards. I hope the following helps with your decision.
"If you have two cartridges that are so similar in external case dimensions why not have one chamber that makes the best of both loads? Enter Bill Wylde. Bill had the idea to create a chamber that would serve the 5.56 and the .223 Remington equally well. The .223 Wylde has the same chamber angling as the standard 5.56 chamber, so there’s no problem with pressures, and it also has a .2240 freebore diameter. The result? You have a chamber that is sufficient to handle the hotter 5.56 load without concerns about pressure and you get the gilt-edge accuracy that’s common in many quality .223 rifles."
Correct. I also have a CVA Hunter single shot, break action that has a very thick chamber, however it specifically states for .223 Remington ONLY on the side of the chamber. I have absolutely no doubt it would take any NATO or Remington round but why chance it. I have an AR-15 Wylde that will take either so I leave the .223 Remington for my wife and her CVA Hunter.
It does look cool though.
Correction, I have a Bear Creek ArsenalWhy are we using the incorrect media term for this as an AR-15? I was excited to think that an armalite was available in a kit .
A 1911, regardless of who builds it in what country, is still a 1911. Same goes for the AK47, the SKS, the Lee Enfield. AR15 is now the standard identifier for the type. If it is built to Mil Std. like the Black Creek Labs upper and lower; all other Mil Std. parts will fit and function. One US company that I know of builds AR15 lowers out of high tech polymer (plastic) to save weight. They are still ARs.Why are we using the incorrect media term for this as an AR-15? I was excited to think that an armalite was available in a kit .
I could not agree with you more!
You might have a hard time getting just a few pieces anodized, due to costs, they usually do large batches. CereKote would be my first choice. Either way good luck.
If you read back and look at the photos, I went with Wheeler Cerama-coat; CereKote is about the same expensive cost as anodizing here; the Cerama-coat, I did myself; and am very happy.
I have a shotgun (old) I would really like to coat the receiver group.. It was painted many years ago by some really ignorant kid who had no clue that painting it with silver paint is just a dumb, dumb idea. So, how much did it cost to coat your piece?
It cost me $45.00 Canadian for the can. You must clean it really well; if it is conventional paint, it needs to come off. What I would do is take the gun apart, take the part you want to coat and have it grit blasted; this will do two things; get rid of the paint, and give you more gripping area for your new finish. Make sure that you mask internals and threads before blasting. Clean it well with a good solvent that leaves no residue, like acetone or brake cleaner.
