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High Fidelity

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Sometimes I'm such a tourist.
View attachment 161515
I think I'm going to make a 3 hour wander around central London an essential part of my post-work routine. I feel much calmer after gallivanting around like a baby hippo...

But it's so buuuuuusy.

There's a conference in May next year I am going to that will no doubt be in London. I am not looking forward to the London part lol.
 
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grandvizier1006

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Sometimes I'm such a tourist.
View attachment 161515
I think I'm going to make a 3 hour wander around central London an essential part of my post-work routine. I feel much calmer after gallivanting around like a baby hippo...
Where is that in the picture?
 
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MiniEmu

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I like that word, gallivanting. It amuses me.
Use it frequently, an extra smile a day is always good!

I had no money left for a holiday, it's so expensive and I had money for the holiday but somehow it disappeared lol on toys and kid's parties. Then someone said: Why don't you go to that website? They have public sale there, you get it for almost nothing. So I did and now we go to Belgium for a week. I said: Do you wanna go here or here kiddo's? There! There! Okay! I won, I was the only one who reacted. Days out to expensive amusement Parks for 20 euro instead of 80, great! Won that one too.

Sounds brilliant! Belgium for a week and a bargain to boot, perfect.

But it's so buuuuuusy.

There's a conference in May next year I am going to that will no doubt be in London. I am not looking forward to the London part lol.

Only if you stick to the main streets :p.

Ha. Poor London, a victim of popularity.
 
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sundewgrower

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I applied the first coat of stain yesterday. 'Stainable wood filler' is an absolute lie. I spent this morning colouring over the hundreds of wood-filler spots with a dark stain. It looked awful, and only slightly better than it did with the initial stain. I then bought some red mahogany stain and applied it. The floor doesn't look bad now. The spots are visible, but it's quite tolerable. I'm going to let that dry a few days before the finish goes on.
You have to layer the filler up in different colors and blend it so it's natural. A step further is to take an artist brush and stain to work in a grain pattern then seal with a clear coat..
Don't go for a single color filler unless it's a smaller hole or you want to fudge it with stain.
 
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Toro

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Oh yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

giphy.gif


Downside to getting home early after work......... I fell asleep. :sorry:

2 hours of sleep made it hard to get through the day, but I made it. Then I was out a short time after getting home. I laid my head on my desk for a nap, the next thing I know. Im waking up in bed.
 
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Hawthorne

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You have to layer the filler up in different colors and blend it so it's natural. A step further is to take an artist brush and stain to work in a grain pattern then seal with a clear coat..
Don't go for a single color filler unless it's a smaller hole or you want to fudge it with stain.
Good to know.


Update: Cabot wood stain acts night-and-day different than Minwax and Danish Oil... Though it could be because I was using Cabot as a second coat overtop Minwax.

I do not understand Cabot. Do I apply and promptly remove excess? Waiting any amount of time results in a tacky consistency. Heck, it's tacky when you apply it. At this point, I'm almost considering using this as a thin paint. The glistening appearance of over application looks somewhat attractive, and I made a dog's breakfast of application the first time, and damage control is now the priority. :ahem:

I still think I'm doing a decent job having no experience on my first large project. :D But no more of that. I have a date with P.G. Wodehouse and Psmith.
 
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sundewgrower

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Good to know.


Update: Cabot wood stain acts night-and-day different than Minwax and Danish Oil... Though it could be because I was using Cabot as a second coat overtop Minwax.

I do not understand Cabot. Do I apply and promptly remove excess? Waiting any amount of time results in a tacky consistency. Heck, it's tacky when you apply it. At this point, I'm almost considering using this as a thin paint. The glistening appearance of over application looks somewhat attractive, and I made a dog's breakfast of application the first time, and damage control is now the priority. :ahem:

I still think I'm doing a decent job having no experience on my first large project. :D But no more of that. I have a date with P.G. Wodehouse and Psmith.
They've been messing with finish formulations for a while due to VOC laws.
Basically, it might work one day, but not the next can. Or worst yet a bad can with a weird mix of driers can kill everything by leaving a tackiness forever so I've seen. I had $2000 of woodwork get tacky from lacquer that never dried, and would turn white no matter what. Lacquer thinner. Scrube and soak them in it. While replacing nitrile gloves every few minutes while using three on each hand. Bad time :(

For stains, it's whatever floats your boat but usually Minwax works, also your Watco oils are nice stain/finish deals for lighter use.
Just don't do a heavy stain or you could have adhesion issues. Light, and the more you add the more toast you can be.
I've worked with my father on very high end houses doing custom sand and finish hardwood floors.
Personally, we don't do much staining, and I just do a lot of clear coats for my business's wood work.
But I've heard and had enough bad stuff happen to have an intuition at times :)
 
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Hawthorne

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They've been messing with finish formulations for a while due to VOC laws.
Basically, it might work on day, but not the next can. Or worst yet a bad can with a weird mix of driers can kill everything by leaving a tackiness forever so I've seen. I had $2000 of woodwork get tacky from lacquer that never dried, and would turn white no matter what. Lacquer thinner. Scrube and soak them in it. While replacing nitrile gloves every few minutes while using three on each hand. Bad time :(

For stains, it's whatever floats your boat but usually Minwax works, also your Watco oills, and etc.
Just don't do a heavy stain or you could have adhesion issues. Light, and the more you add the more toast you can be.
I've worked with my father on very high end houses doing custom sand and finish hardwood floors.
Personally, we don't do much staining, and I just do a lot of clear coats for my business's wood work.
But I've heard and had enough bad stuff happen to have an intuition at times :)
Wow, what a mess. Thankfully I've not encountered anything as bad as that.

I had originally gone with Minwax Cherry, but it wasn't nearly as red as I wanted, and there was also the problem of the wood filler (without the wood filler issue, I would have been content with the initial Minwax stain), so I sought a darker stain. It's not tacky now, I'm just trying toeven the stain to make it look uniform.

I would have used Watco (it's my go-to when making bookcases) but they did not recommend it for use on floors (fir plywood). I've got some water-based Cabot polyurethane for floors (is there anything to that, or is it a gimmick?) which I plan to put overtop. The over application of the Cabot has made a pretty glossy and hard coating over the wood, so it's not a complete loss. These things never turn out how you expect. ^_^
 
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sundewgrower

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Wow, what a mess. Thankfully I've not encountered anything as bad as that.

I had originally gone with Minwax Cherry, but it wasn't nearly as red as I wanted, and there was also the problem of the wood filler (without the wood filler issue, I would have been content with the initial Minwax stain), so I sought a darker stain. It's not tacky now, I'm just trying toeven the stain to make it look uniform.

I would have used Watco (it's my go-to when making bookcases) but they did not recommend it for use on floors (fir plywood). I've got some water-based Cabot polyurethane for floors (is there anything to that, or is it a gimmick?) which I plan to put overtop. The over application of the Cabot has made a pretty glossy and hard coating over the wood, so it's not a complete loss. These things never turn out how you expect. ^_^
Problem with water-base is it pops wood. Bonus is it will dry in any weather unlike oil that is slow in cooler or damp weather and can be a very hard/durable finish.
Waterbase can work but is usually $50+ a gallon for say Glitsa, Bona, or etc from your flooring store.
Polyurethane oilbase is nice since it usually just works, but usually it's nice to get a better brand from a flooring store since it dries nicer, and etc. In the end I wouldn't use Watco unless you're doing a special burnished very hard floor like Ipe which I doubt you'll encounter.
 
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SarahsKnight

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Oh yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

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Hah, good gif, Toro. Haven't thought about that in a while. The Kool-Aid guy breaking through the wall was one of relatively few times that Family Guy was actually seriously funny instead of just groan-worthy in its shock humor.
 
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MehGuy

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Hah, good gif, Toro. Haven't thought about that in a while. The Kool-Aid guy breaking through the wall was one of relatively few times that Family Guy was actually seriously funny instead of just groan-worthy in its shock humor.

Yeah, the early season of Family Guy are great.
 
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Hawthorne

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Thanks very much for your information, @sundewgrower! It's nice to hear someone with experience discussing the subject.

I Googled 'popping wood', and that means raising the grain, correct? If so, I did that and sanded (220g) twice before applying stain. I'm thinking of going over a few spots with some 320g before putting on the polyurethane because I did a poor initial job of the second stain since it's a little rough in a couple places.

EDIT - Or is it 'popping' as in creaking and squeaking floors?
 
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