I love my Staffordshire Terrior a.k.a. "Pitbull" Thread!

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lovestrav

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woman.at.the.well said:
Does anyone else know anything we can do to alleviate this? I hate to say this but . . .getting males fixed does seem to be part of the solution, but not so if you breed your dogs. Any other suggestions???

When I am at a friend's with my unneutered male, and she has her unneutered male, it can be a stiff peace at best. What we've tried, and seems to work, is to meet on neutral territory. Although the lab may be the one acting out, it's possible it's out of fear or being confused as to what his place in the hierarchy is. We meet on neutral ground, both dogs leashed, and ignore them, but not let them touch, for at least 20 minutes. Usually we just stand near each other and talk in a park. After that, they can be brought close enough to touch and sniff. Again, both owners have to be aware, but not make a fuss, that will just get their respective dogs riled up. So, we just move closer, still try to ignore and watch for hackles raising or posturing with a stiff tail. If everything's going well, we let them get even closer, finally working our way to off-leash for both of them. Then... we go to a home, usually the dominant dogs.
We've also had success leaving them on opposite sides of a fenced area. Unless they all out brawl, it will give them a chance to get to know each other without too much physical contact. However, keep in mind, dogs can hurt each other through the fence, and never stick your hands or feet into a brawl. A rake handle, piece of plywood, board, etc, needs to be used to seperate them.
What I've noticed with Staffies, Boxers, Schnauzers, etc. they can act very very tough, but because they are working dogs that form a close bond with their owners, they can usually be talked out of a fight. My little Boxer thinks she's so tough. But, if she's acting uppity when I don't want her to, I'll growl deep in my throat, making a low noise, but forceful, she'll stop. She knows that I'm boss dog and she's not allowed to argue without my permission. This is an easy lesson to teach them because I maintain a pack order, and emulate many of the same pack actions that they learn as dogs.
OK, I've rambled too much.
 
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lovestrav said:
When I am at a friend's with my unneutered male, and she has her unneutered male, it can be a stiff peace at best. What we've tried, and seems to work, is to meet on neutral territory. Although the lab may be the one acting out, it's possible it's out of fear or being confused as to what his place in the hierarchy is. We meet on neutral ground, both dogs leashed, and ignore them, but not let them touch, for at least 20 minutes. Usually we just stand near each other and talk in a park. After that, they can be brought close enough to touch and sniff. Again, both owners have to be aware, but not make a fuss, that will just get their respective dogs riled up. So, we just move closer, still try to ignore and watch for hackles raising or posturing with a stiff tail. If everything's going well, we let them get even closer, finally working our way to off-leash for both of them. Then... we go to a home, usually the dominant dogs.
We've also had success leaving them on opposite sides of a fenced area. Unless they all out brawl, it will give them a chance to get to know each other without too much physical contact. However, keep in mind, dogs can hurt each other through the fence, and never stick your hands or feet into a brawl. A rake handle, piece of plywood, board, etc, needs to be used to seperate them.
What I've noticed with Staffies, Boxers, Schnauzers, etc. they can act very very tough, but because they are working dogs that form a close bond with their owners, they can usually be talked out of a fight. My little Boxer thinks she's so tough. But, if she's acting uppity when I don't want her to, I'll growl deep in my throat, making a low noise, but forceful, she'll stop. She knows that I'm boss dog and she's not allowed to argue without my permission. This is an easy lesson to teach them because I maintain a pack order, and emulate many of the same pack actions that they learn as dogs.
OK, I've rambled too much.

You know . . . I tried to tell my youngest son and ex to have Cliff and Tison meet in neutral territory but they did not listen. I had a feeling that is why it went bad. They (my ex and oldest son) were understandibly tired after driving 15-16 hrs to come for a visit, so that may be why they didn't want to go anywhere else. But even the youngest (who is Tison's dad :0) thought I was crazy for insisting on neutral territory.

It never even occurred to me that the lab may have been scared because he was "out of sorts" and out of his own comfort zone or not knowing the hierarchy. Good point - thank you for sharing it!

Excellent post! Thank you very much!

P.S. I'm so glad you enjoyed the pic of the puppy that looks just like Jazzy Girl. She is a doll!
 
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Yes, dogs are so rank based that the slightest change in hierarchy can upset the entire pack or group of dogs.

I travel with my dogs every weekend to shows. They stand among 1000's of dogs and never act out. However, when I am at home, and a dog visits, they act like the world has been turned upside down.
Even introducing a puppy can be a long ordeal, while the others try to figure out where the puppy belongs, but, puppies can get away with alot more with an adult dog, than another adult could.
To maintain the peace in our home, they are all treated as pack dogs under me, the alpha dog, and also under my husband. Dogs can understand this because they would have an alpha male and an alpha female in their natural order. Some ways to establish and maintain a pack order, even if you have just 1 dog.
1. I go through every door first, they follow me. Sometimes this is awkward as I end up holding the door open for the dogs, but, I always open the door first and go through, and they are not allowed to sneak by as I walk in. They are told when they can follow, just a simple "OK" and they don't have to wait but an instant.
2. I feed them according to their pack order, and after I have eaten. So for supper I eat first, with my husband, then they are fed, the oldest highest ranking dog first, and then down the line.
3. When they are let out of their crates, the highest ranking dog comes out first, and this also applies to petting, being given treats or toys, and other things. Top dog always gets it first.
4. They must do what I say. If they ignore or refuse to obey a command, I make them do it, I don't just shrug my shoulders and walk away. This is vital to a dog's life, as obedience may save them from being injured some day.
5. No fighting without my permission, which is of course never. If one dog begins to argue, by growling or posturing, they are told to stop in an authoritative voice. If they refuse, they are put in their crate or outside before things get out of hand. After 5 minutes, they've forgotten the whole incident.
6. They are not allowed to stand over me. If a dog stands over another dog, they are being dominant. So, if I'm laying on the floor with them, and one tries to stand over me, they are pushed off. This is best done when they are puppies. For the most part, once a hierarchy is established, not much will change it. For example, my boxer is small, and much smaller than our Weimaraners. They are all much larger than her by 20 pounds or so, sometimes as much as twice her weight, yet she is still the top female, she is treated as such, and unless she were to get ill or weak, she will remain so.
7. Dogs have a hierarchy, but also have a hierarchy by sex. If you were to have 3 girls and 1 boy, they may all be able to play on the same level with the boy, but would have to act submissive according to their hierarchy with the other girls.

Sorry if I'm rambling, but understanding dogs can make your life with them much much easier. They don't speak human, and we don't speak dog, but we can understand each other. Dogs will automatically learn what things mean when you do them, like when you rustle the treat bag, they can hear it from 4 counties away, but often people refuse to learn what the things dogs do mean, or at the very least in an only rudimentary way.

Good Luck!
 
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lovestrav said:
Yes, dogs are so rank based that the slightest change in hierarchy can upset the entire pack or group of dogs.

I travel with my dogs every weekend to shows. They stand among 1000's of dogs and never act out. However, when I am at home, and a dog visits, they act like the world has been turned upside down.
Even introducing a puppy can be a long ordeal, while the others try to figure out where the puppy belongs, but, puppies can get away with alot more with an adult dog, than another adult could.
To maintain the peace in our home, they are all treated as pack dogs under me, the alpha dog, and also under my husband. Dogs can understand this because they would have an alpha male and an alpha female in their natural order. Some ways to establish and maintain a pack order, even if you have just 1 dog.
1. I go through every door first, they follow me. Sometimes this is awkward as I end up holding the door open for the dogs, but, I always open the door first and go through, and they are not allowed to sneak by as I walk in. They are told when they can follow, just a simple "OK" and they don't have to wait but an instant.
2. I feed them according to their pack order, and after I have eaten. So for supper I eat first, with my husband, then they are fed, the oldest highest ranking dog first, and then down the line.
3. When they are let out of their crates, the highest ranking dog comes out first, and this also applies to petting, being given treats or toys, and other things. Top dog always gets it first.
4. They must do what I say. If they ignore or refuse to obey a command, I make them do it, I don't just shrug my shoulders and walk away. This is vital to a dog's life, as obedience may save them from being injured some day.
5. No fighting without my permission, which is of course never. If one dog begins to argue, by growling or posturing, they are told to stop in an authoritative voice. If they refuse, they are put in their crate or outside before things get out of hand. After 5 minutes, they've forgotten the whole incident.
6. They are not allowed to stand over me. If a dog stands over another dog, they are being dominant. So, if I'm laying on the floor with them, and one tries to stand over me, they are pushed off. This is best done when they are puppies. For the most part, once a hierarchy is established, not much will change it. For example, my boxer is small, and much smaller than our Weimaraners. They are all much larger than her by 20 pounds or so, sometimes as much as twice her weight, yet she is still the top female, she is treated as such, and unless she were to get ill or weak, she will remain so.
7. Dogs have a hierarchy, but also have a hierarchy by sex. If you were to have 3 girls and 1 boy, they may all be able to play on the same level with the boy, but would have to act submissive according to their hierarchy with the other girls.

Sorry if I'm rambling, but understanding dogs can make your life with them much much easier. They don't speak human, and we don't speak dog, but we can understand each other. Dogs will automatically learn what things mean when you do them, like when you rustle the treat bag, they can hear it from 4 counties away, but often people refuse to learn what the things dogs do mean, or at the very least in an only rudimentary way.

Good Luck!

Thank you so much for this extremely helpful information lovestrav. I really appreciate it more than I could say. Our Tison is definitely the Alpha dog in our house and we struggle with him Alpha dogging us because we never set the right hierarchy order! We'll get to work on it!

Can I ask you a few more questions please? I've heard so much conflicting information on crating dogs I would like to know what you have heard that is good and helped you decide to crate your dogs. How long do you leave them in there? While you go to work, etc.?

Do you know a good way to handle dogs who pull when they are being walked?

By the way , you are NOT rambling in any way, shape, or form. What you are saying is not only helping me immeasurably, but I'm sure it is helping others!

God bless you!
 
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woman.at.the.well said:
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful information lovestrav. I really appreciate it more than I could say. Our Tison is definitely the Alpha dog in our house and we struggle with him Alpha dogging us because we never set the right hierarchy order! We'll get to work on it!

Good Luck! And think of it kind of like that nanny show on TV, where you see the kids dominating the parents. At first your dog isn't going to like it, but stick it out and you are going to have a much better dog, and one that enjoys its place in your household more, and you'll enjoy your dog more, creating a bond that is like no other.

You may also try the "make him work for it" strategy, as you reorganize your household. Simply, that means, the dog has to work for everything it gets. This helps with both obedience and the hierarchy. When it is time to eat, he must obey some command; sit, down, kennel, etc. When it has been obeyed, he gets the food. When its time to come inside, if he's been out, he must sit first, etc. This establishes the correct working relationship. Your dog wants nothing more to please you, but if you don't take the role of top dog, they will. It's not because they don't like you, it's because for their mental health, something has to be in charge.

Every dog is different, and there may be things that work for you better than others. It's a learning process, just don't give up. If you ever need anything, write me: Julie@novelkennels.com and I'll try to help, or turn you to someone else that has more experience.

woman.at.the.well said:
Can I ask you a few more questions please? I've heard so much conflicting information on crating dogs I would like to know what you have heard that is good and helped you decide to crate your dogs. How long do you leave them in there? While you go to work, etc.?

What an excellent question. With our first dog, we tried to crate him, and he flipped out, bloodied his face and feet, and we never put him in it again. WE DID IT ALL WRONG! and I wish I had learned the right way with him. It would have saved us tons and tons of heartache and trouble.

A crate can be an excellent tool, and believe it or not, is a natural feeling for a dog, but it just has to be done right. Like any other tool, you have to know how to use it, and then teach your dog how to use it.

Make sure the crate is the correct size. The dog must be able to stand up without having to crouch, and must be able to turn around in a circle, at the very minimum. We buy the largest crates, for a Weim about $100 a pop, but they're worth it. I like the wire crates, but have used the plastic (airline type) ones too. The wire ones I can fold up and or take down to move around or store. Make sure that the door has a good latch, one at the top and bottom is the best. They make some that have dividers that you can use to help potty train, those are nice. Most come with a plastic bottom, I prefer the metal trays. The dogs can't destroy them, but they're nosier when they're clanging their food bowl against it.

Crates can be used to potty train a puppy with great success, but there are some different rules involved there. I'll just talk about crating an adult, potty-trained dog.

Introduce your dog to the crate. Set it up in a room that is near the hub of activity in the house, or somewhere you are often. Some people put them in their bedrooms near the bed, the kitchen is also good. We have a room that opens up into the living room, kitchen and our master bedroom. We use that. It's also on linoleum, which may be a consideration if you had a puppy, easier to clean up an accident. But don't put your dog in it yet. Just set it up and open the door and leave it. Let your dog investigate on his/her terms, for a few days. Put toys and blankets in the crate. You can also drape an old sheet or blanket over the crate, making it like a hideout.

Start feeding in the crate. When its time to eat, put the bowl of food in the crate. Don't lock the dog in it, just put the food in there. Most dogs will run in there to eat. If your dog is hesitant, just leave him in the room with the food, and walk away. If you're nervous about him and the crate, he's going to be nervous about the crate.

Start shutting the door. After a week or so, when the dog is eating in the crate without incident, shut the door during the meal times. At first, shut it when you first put him in, but open it again before he's done eating. So he never really has to stay in the crate, but he will notice you shutting the door.

Shut the door for longer times. Begin leaving the door closed for longer and longer increments of time. 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes. NEVER let the dog out if he begins to cry. If you do, he just trained you. He's not in any danger, he's just throwing a tantrum like the children on tv do when they don't get their way. Ignore the howling, wailing, crying, barking, etc. Don't tell him to shut up, or be quiet, or acknowledge the tantrum in any way. Some dogs will never do this. They love their crates and don't mind being there, but some throw tantrums. Don't progress to a longer time, until the tantrums stop at your current time. If your dog barks for 3 of the 5 minutes at first, keep the time to 5 minutes, until he doesn't bark during those 5 minutes. However, this may happen, you were planning on a 5 minute session, after 5 minutes, your dog is still barking, crying, scratching at the door, etc. Ignore it, and don't open that door until they stop. It may be 10 minutes, I've seen 25 minutes once. They can be really, really stubborn. But most likely, they won't give you any trouble next time.

How long? Now for time, the rule of thumb, is never crate a dog longer than it is months old. So a 6 month old dog, should never be crated for over 6 hours, a 2 month old dog, 2 hours. No dog should be crated over 8 hours. They have to pee too! And besides the obvious discomfort, you could cause bladder and kidney problems.

When? We crate our dogs for a variety of reasons. I actually stay home with the dogs, but they may be crated at times when I'm home, and are always crated when I'm away. They are taught to go to their crate on command. I say "kennel", and then lead them to the crate and put them in. They get a treat then. They get the drift after a few times. It's easy to teach too when you're feeding them in there. Crate = food! Dogs like that equation.
So when company is at the door, they are all told "kennel", and I put them away. Remember, lowest dog on totem pole gets kenneled first, and then up the line, with the top dog being kenneled last. The top dog is the first dog out.
So they can be crated for company when they're over. Not everyone wants an 80 lb dog in their lap...:D They're crated during meal times. They're crated over night, but not always, and maybe not all of them. We mix it up, 1 dog gets to sleep with us one night, a different dog the next. Sleeping with you in your bed is a big dog privledge, and if you have a dog that is testing your hierarchy, you may want to crate him overnight. They're also crated when we're away from the house. A dog left loose in a house can cause major damage, and can injure themselves.
NEVER crate your dog as punishment. You want the dog to enjoy it's crate, not think of it as a punishment.
Crates can be safe havens for your dog. They can be of use if your dog were to fall ill and needed to be kept quiet, or if they had surgery. They can help in potty training. They can keep your sanity. You need to be able to feel secure that your dog is safe when you leave the house, not eating all the old kleenexs from the wastebasket in the bathroom. The dog isn't being hurt by the crate and is not going to hate you for being crated. Our two oldest dogs can be told to go to their kennel, and they will, and stay there for hours, with the door open. It's comfortable for them (lots of blankies) they have toys to play with. They're not being injured or mistreated.
A crate may cost $100, but the rug that he pulled up next to the front door while you were at work yesterday, will cost lots more than that to replace. It's a most worthwhile expense.

woman.at.the.well said:
Do you know a good way to handle dogs who pull when they are being walked?

Grab a leash and collar. The collar can be a variety of types, but a basic nylon collar should work for the average dog. Put the collar on the dog. Attach the leash. Make the dog sit (doesn't matter if he walks to your left or right. In obedience trials, he's on your left.) Say "heel" and begin walking, the dog will follow after. Keep the leash held short enough that he can't get more than his hind leg past your knee, but you don't want it so short that you're dragging him along, or being dragged. A dog should heel with his shoulder at your knee.
OK, so the dog was sitting, you said "heel" and started walking. Your dog comes galloping after, the second your dog goes past your knee, turn at a 90 degree angle, say "heel". He's forced to turn with you, but doesn't get the chance to drag you. When he runs up again, don't let him past your knee, just turn at that angle. You may feel silly, and get a little dizzy, and heaven knows what your neighbors will think, but you're doing two things. You're training the dog to follow you (hierarchy), and you're not playing a game he likes, pull the human.
Dogs naturally walk faster than us, its not their fault they pull. You just have to take the upper hand and teach them to walk slower.
Only train like this for a few minutes at a time. 10 minutes at the most. If you live in the city, and you walk your dog for potty breaks, try and not reverse your training. Don't practice the 5 minutes of not pulling, just to let him pull you for 30 minutes during the potty walk.
After just a few sessions your dog will get the idea. Watch the human, they walk like drunken sailors... lol!
I hope that helps. Take it slow, stick to your guns, and don't let them train you. Everyone is always free to e-mail me.
 
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She's not a pitbull, but she's my girl.
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Oh, I saw a Chow/Staffie mix today. 8 week old puppy. It looked like a chow mostly, but you could see the Staffordshire in the width of its head and you could see the kindness in its eyes where Chows have more of an aloof attitude.
I trimmed his toenails for the couple because he needed them done.
 
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lovestrav said:
Oh, I saw a Chow/Staffie mix today. 8 week old puppy. It looked like a chow mostly, but you could see the Staffordshire in the width of its head and you could see the kindness in its eyes where Chows have more of an aloof attitude.
I trimmed his toenails for the couple because he needed them done.

Oh my gosh!!! He/she must have been soooooo adorable! The staffy end of that puppy will balance out that "aloofness" that Chows tend to carry :0) He/she will be a big loveable teddy bear in NO time at all!!!:thumbsup: ;)
 
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WhatIsTruth said:
Here is my girl Francis! (she's in the close up picture) and my husband's boy Gabriel (he's the one with the pacifier in his mouth)

We Love them so much!!!!!!!!!

They are THEE absolute BEST, aren't they? Your baby's are just too cute for words!!!:D Please give them a big huge :hug: for me!!! And thank you sooooooooo much for "sharing" them with us :clap: :clap: :clap: . Please feel free to share more.

How old are they? You may have said that already and I just didn't go back to previous posts far enough. Forgive me if you did and I overlooked it. Tell us how they got their names if you would please. I always find that interesting :0)

How long do the pacifiers last? I'm wondering if Jazzy Girl (our new puppy) would like one of those.

Again, thank you soooooooooo much for sharing your adorable staffy's with us here on CF!!! They are just beautiful!
 
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woman.at.the.well said:
They are THEE absolute BEST, aren't they? Your baby's are just too cute for words!!!:D Please give them a big huge :hug: for me!!! And thank you sooooooooo much for "sharing" them with us :clap: :clap: :clap: . Please feel free to share more.

How old are they? You may have said that already and I just didn't go back to previous posts far enough. Forgive me if you did and I overlooked it. Tell us how they got their names if you would please. I always find that interesting :0)

How long do the pacifiers last? I'm wondering if Jazzy Girl (our new puppy) would like one of those.

Again, thank you soooooooooo much for sharing your adorable staffy's with us here on CF!!! They are just beautiful!

Francis is a year and a half old, and Gabriel (the one with the pacifier) is a little over two years old. Francis' name comes from St. Francis, who I have an affection for, and Gabriel, came from the Archangel Gabriel.

As far as Pacifiers, I would say you would have to take into account how big the puppy's /dogs teeth are and if they are teething, that sort of thing. With a puppy a pacifier should last a while. Gabriel on the other hand, can chew it up within a half hour, so I don't usually give those to him unless its a treat. Though I give my dogs treats a fair bit of the time.

I will give them hugs and kisses for you!

Peace
 
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