woman.at.the.well said:
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful information lovestrav. I really appreciate it more than I could say. Our Tison is definitely the Alpha dog in our house and we struggle with him Alpha dogging us because we never set the right hierarchy order! We'll get to work on it!
Good Luck! And think of it kind of like that nanny show on TV, where you see the kids dominating the parents. At first your dog isn't going to like it, but stick it out and you are going to have a much better dog, and one that enjoys its place in your household more, and you'll enjoy your dog more, creating a bond that is like no other.
You may also try the "make him work for it" strategy, as you reorganize your household. Simply, that means, the dog has to work for everything it gets. This helps with both obedience and the hierarchy. When it is time to eat, he must obey some command; sit, down, kennel, etc. When it has been obeyed, he gets the food. When its time to come inside, if he's been out, he must sit first, etc. This establishes the correct working relationship. Your dog wants nothing more to please you, but if you don't take the role of top dog, they will. It's not because they don't like you, it's because for their mental health, something has to be in charge.
Every dog is different, and there may be things that work for you better than others. It's a learning process, just don't give up. If you ever need anything, write me:
Julie@novelkennels.com and I'll try to help, or turn you to someone else that has more experience.
woman.at.the.well said:
Can I ask you a few more questions please? I've heard so much conflicting information on crating dogs I would like to know what you have heard that is good and helped you decide to crate your dogs. How long do you leave them in there? While you go to work, etc.?
What an excellent question. With our first dog, we tried to crate him, and he flipped out, bloodied his face and feet, and we never put him in it again. WE DID IT ALL WRONG! and I wish I had learned the right way with him. It would have saved us tons and tons of heartache and trouble.
A crate can be an excellent tool, and believe it or not, is a natural feeling for a dog, but it just has to be done right. Like any other tool, you have to know how to use it, and then teach your dog how to use it.
Make sure the crate is the correct size. The dog must be able to stand up without having to crouch, and must be able to turn around in a circle, at the very minimum. We buy the largest crates, for a Weim about $100 a pop, but they're worth it. I like the wire crates, but have used the plastic (airline type) ones too. The wire ones I can fold up and or take down to move around or store. Make sure that the door has a good latch, one at the top and bottom is the best. They make some that have dividers that you can use to help potty train, those are nice. Most come with a plastic bottom, I prefer the metal trays. The dogs can't destroy them, but they're nosier when they're clanging their food bowl against it.
Crates can be used to potty train a puppy with great success, but there are some different rules involved there. I'll just talk about crating an adult, potty-trained dog.
Introduce your dog to the crate. Set it up in a room that is near the hub of activity in the house, or somewhere you are often. Some people put them in their bedrooms near the bed, the kitchen is also good. We have a room that opens up into the living room, kitchen and our master bedroom. We use that. It's also on linoleum, which may be a consideration if you had a puppy, easier to clean up an accident. But don't put your dog in it yet. Just set it up and open the door and leave it. Let your dog investigate on his/her terms, for a few days. Put toys and blankets in the crate. You can also drape an old sheet or blanket over the crate, making it like a hideout.
Start feeding in the crate. When its time to eat, put the bowl of food in the crate. Don't lock the dog in it, just put the food in there. Most dogs will run in there to eat. If your dog is hesitant, just leave him in the room with the food, and walk away. If you're nervous about him and the crate, he's going to be nervous about the crate.
Start shutting the door. After a week or so, when the dog is eating in the crate without incident, shut the door during the meal times. At first, shut it when you first put him in, but open it again before he's done eating. So he never really has to stay in the crate, but he will notice you shutting the door.
Shut the door for longer times. Begin leaving the door closed for longer and longer increments of time. 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes.
NEVER let the dog out if he begins to cry. If you do, he just trained you. He's not in any danger, he's just throwing a tantrum like the children on tv do when they don't get their way. Ignore the howling, wailing, crying, barking, etc. Don't tell him to shut up, or be quiet, or acknowledge the tantrum in any way. Some dogs will never do this. They love their crates and don't mind being there, but some throw tantrums. Don't progress to a longer time, until the tantrums stop at your current time. If your dog barks for 3 of the 5 minutes at first, keep the time to 5 minutes, until he doesn't bark during those 5 minutes. However, this may happen, you were planning on a 5 minute session, after 5 minutes, your dog is still barking, crying, scratching at the door, etc. Ignore it, and don't open that door until they stop. It may be 10 minutes, I've seen 25 minutes once. They can be really, really stubborn. But most likely, they won't give you any trouble next time.
How long? Now for time, the rule of thumb, is never crate a dog longer than it is months old. So a 6 month old dog, should never be crated for over 6 hours, a 2 month old dog, 2 hours. No dog should be crated over 8 hours. They have to pee too! And besides the obvious discomfort, you could cause bladder and kidney problems.
When? We crate our dogs for a variety of reasons. I actually stay home with the dogs, but they may be crated at times when I'm home, and are always crated when I'm away. They are taught to go to their crate on command. I say "kennel", and then lead them to the crate and put them in. They get a treat then. They get the drift after a few times. It's easy to teach too when you're feeding them in there. Crate = food! Dogs like that equation.
So when company is at the door, they are all told "kennel", and I put them away. Remember, lowest dog on totem pole gets kenneled first, and then up the line, with the top dog being kenneled last. The top dog is the first dog out.
So they can be crated for company when they're over. Not everyone wants an 80 lb dog in their lap...
They're crated during meal times. They're crated over night, but not always, and maybe not all of them. We mix it up, 1 dog gets to sleep with us one night, a different dog the next. Sleeping with you in your bed is a big dog privledge, and if you have a dog that is testing your hierarchy, you may want to crate him overnight. They're also crated when we're away from the house. A dog left loose in a house can cause major damage, and can injure themselves.
NEVER crate your dog as punishment. You want the dog to enjoy it's crate, not think of it as a punishment.
Crates can be safe havens for your dog. They can be of use if your dog were to fall ill and needed to be kept quiet, or if they had surgery. They can help in potty training. They can keep your sanity. You need to be able to feel secure that your dog is safe when you leave the house, not eating all the old kleenexs from the wastebasket in the bathroom. The dog isn't being hurt by the crate and is not going to hate you for being crated. Our two oldest dogs can be told to go to their kennel, and they will, and stay there for hours, with the door open. It's comfortable for them (lots of blankies) they have toys to play with. They're not being injured or mistreated.
A crate may cost $100, but the rug that he pulled up next to the front door while you were at work yesterday, will cost lots more than that to replace. It's a most worthwhile expense.
woman.at.the.well said:
Do you know a good way to handle dogs who pull when they are being walked?
Grab a leash and collar. The collar can be a variety of types, but a basic nylon collar should work for the average dog. Put the collar on the dog. Attach the leash. Make the dog sit (doesn't matter if he walks to your left or right. In obedience trials, he's on your left.) Say "heel" and begin walking, the dog will follow after. Keep the leash held short enough that he can't get more than his hind leg past your knee, but you don't want it so short that you're dragging him along, or being dragged. A dog should heel with his shoulder at your knee.
OK, so the dog was sitting, you said "heel" and started walking. Your dog comes galloping after, the second your dog goes past your knee, turn at a 90 degree angle, say "heel". He's forced to turn with you, but doesn't get the chance to drag you. When he runs up again, don't let him past your knee, just turn at that angle. You may feel silly, and get a little dizzy, and heaven knows what your neighbors will think, but you're doing two things. You're training the dog to follow you (hierarchy), and you're not playing a game he likes, pull the human.
Dogs naturally walk faster than us, its not their fault they pull. You just have to take the upper hand and teach them to walk slower.
Only train like this for a few minutes at a time. 10 minutes at the most. If you live in the city, and you walk your dog for potty breaks, try and not reverse your training. Don't practice the 5 minutes of not pulling, just to let him pull you for 30 minutes during the potty walk.
After just a few sessions your dog will get the idea. Watch the human, they walk like drunken sailors... lol!
I hope that helps. Take it slow, stick to your guns, and don't let them train you. Everyone is always free to
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