Power strip load

[returntosender]

Breaker is shot and for all things it is for my fridge and freezer. Can a power strip handle both. I would guess it can handle the box freezer but not the fridge
I have an extension ran to one of them but can't find my other extension cord.
I need some ideas on this as to which makes more sence to keep running. I just bought eggs and milk, etc and freezing doesn't make sense for the short run. I don't think I have enough room in my fridge freezer to hold the box freezers content not to mention I can't be running to the store for food with no transportation. The strip would be the answer if it would work. It's too bad those heavy extension cords don't have a double end.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Wookiee]

What you have to look for is how much current everything collectively draws from a power point. In Australia that's 10A. I think it's the same in the US.*

I've run a fridge and freezer off a power board before. But make sure you get a decent one.




*Not an electrician

 

[bèlla]

If you're renting I'd ask maintenance. They'd know best.

~bella

 

[returntosender]

What you have to look for is how much current everything collectively draws from a power point. In Australia that's 10A. I think it's the same in the US.*

I've run a fridge and freezer off a power board before. But make sure you get a decent one.




*Not an electrician

Thanks very much. I was going to use an existing power strip. I think I won't use the same socket if I find the other cord. Even so this sockets might not have high enough circuit breaker amps. I thought ours go up to 30 amps but that seems awfully high
As long as my cooling doesn't go.....

 

[returntosender]

If you're renting I'd ask maintenance. They'd know best.

~bella

Thanks but I own

 

[Mark Quayle]

Breaker is shot and for all things it is for my fridge and freezer. Can a power strip handle both. I would guess it can handle the box freezer but not the fridge
I have an extension ran to one of them but can't find my other extension cord.
I need some ideas on this as to which makes more sence to keep running. I just bought eggs and milk, etc and freezing doesn't make sense for the short run. I don't think I have enough room in my fridge freezer to hold the box freezers content not to mention I can't be running to the store for food with no transportation. The strip would be the answer if it would work. It's too bad those heavy extension cords don't have a double end.
Thanks for any help.

It should, but the strip may not be the problem you encounter next. The circuit you plug into is still controlled by its breaker in the panel. But that too shouldn't be a problem as long as there aren't other things, like microwave, coffeepot, hairdryer etc. on the same breaker.

But what makes you think the breaker you've been on is shot? Maybe you have other things on the same breaker...?

Either way, breakers aren't usually particularly expensive nor hard to change out.

 

[returntosender]

Aps came out and reset then and he said they are bad and the box needs to be replaced. I did suspect something in that line did it but I unplugged It and it still won't work. The breakers aren't tripping. It can't be the microwave as I haven't poweed it in since the problem. There is nothing else except the ceiling light. When the pole went down there was a few fluctuations. Some rooms came on others didn't. When the pole was fixed the kitchen was the only one that was off and aps got it back on for a while. The fridge and freezer can't be the problem as I have had them both on the extension one on and the other off alternately and the both are working.
Thanks for your help
Replacing the breaker is beyond my courage.
The aps guy said they were all old but my brother in law replaced all in them in 2008 but then the city did some work on the house and I noticed half if them were gone. No nothing Tech's.

 

[returntosender]

So because of what you said I think I will unplug the power strip that is on that line which has several things on it but none are running unless I turn them on but it could be the power strip?

 

[RDKirk]

Common power strips in America bought for residential use are maxed at 14 amps (at about 115 volts), which is the usual maximum for a single circuit in American residences. The plug and outlet will have the typical two parallel blades/slots for the conductors with a third prong/hole for the ground.

Residences usually also have a few 20-amp circuits (at about 220 volts) for special high-voltage uses such as an electric range. That will have blades/slots at right angles for the conductors so that you cannot plug a 20-amp device into a 14 amp circuit, although you can plug a 14-amp device into a 20-amp circuit. Usually the number of receptacles (thus devices) is limited on a 20-amp circuit.

You're talking about putting two heavy-draw devices on one circuit. A refrigerator will often use 10-15 amps all by itself, which would max out a a 14-amp power strip and the circuit it can be plugged into.

 

[Mark Quayle]

So because of what you said I think I will unplug the power strip that is on that line which has several things on it but none are running unless I turn them on but it could be the power strip?

I don't know if this is addressed to me or not. No, if the power strip is working and nothing that is plugged into it is turned on, drawing power from the breaker, the power strip isn't the problem.

 

[returntosender]

I don't know if this is addressed to me or not. No, if the power strip is working and nothing that is plugged into it is turned on, drawing power from the breaker, the power strip isn't the problem.

I was so hoping you were right about it being a device and not the breaker but I unplugged anything even the stove igniters. Nothing comes easy. I reset the breakers but it's still off. I will have to keep looking for the other cord. So they both will have power
I don't think I will plug them into the same socket as the house amps are lower than the fridge and freezer. At least I would hope they would consider appliances would need a higher breaker when they set the box up.
Thanks so much for your Input. It gave me hope for a moment.
God bless you!

 

[bèlla]

Thanks but I own

Call an electrician. You don’t want to hurt yourself or start a fire unintentionally. You’ll rest peacefully knowing the problem is solved.

~bella

 

[returntosender]

I found the other extension so both are running since last night.
Thanks for all the input

 

[returntosender]

Well now what?
The power back on in both rooms. Do I put everything back the way it was?
OR
Did the power company get the pole back up wrong and they got so many complaints they had to came back and do it right??
I think I will call and wonder if I will get the truth of it.

 

[returntosender]

They keep bad records. I didn't learn anything new.

 

[RDKirk]

They keep bad records. I didn't learn anything new.

They'll never give you details at the customer service level.

 

[Gregorikos]

Common power strips in America bought for residential use are maxed at 14 amps (at about 115 volts), which is the usual maximum for a single circuit in American residences. The plug and outlet will have the typical two parallel blades/slots for the conductors with a third prong/hole for the ground.

Residences usually also have a few 20-amp circuits (at about 220 volts) for special high-voltage uses such as an electric range. That will have blades/slots at right angles for the conductors so that you cannot plug a 20-amp device into a 14 amp circuit, although you can plug a 14-amp device into a 20-amp circuit. Usually the number of receptacles (thus devices) is limited on a 20-amp circuit.

You're talking about putting two heavy-draw devices on one circuit. A refrigerator will often use 10-15 amps all by itself, which would max out a a 14-amp power strip and the circuit it can be plugged into.

Uh..... you were going fairly well until you said:

Residences usually also have a few 20-amp circuits (at about 220 volts)

No. Residences have 120 volt and 240 volt circuits. The 120 volt circuits are almost always either 15 amp or 20 amp.

The 240 volt circuits can be 20, 30, 40, 60, 80, or 100 amps, depending on the device being powered.

But all of that is irrelevant, because the power strip being used is good for 15 amps. That's what we are limited to in this case.

 

[Gregorikos]

Breaker is shot and for all things it is for my fridge and freezer. Can a power strip handle both. I would guess it can handle the box freezer but not the fridge
I have an extension ran to one of them but can't find my other extension cord.
I need some ideas on this as to which makes more sence to keep running. I just bought eggs and milk, etc and freezing doesn't make sense for the short run. I don't think I have enough room in my fridge freezer to hold the box freezers content not to mention I can't be running to the store for food with no transportation. The strip would be the answer if it would work. It's too bad those heavy extension cords don't have a double end.
Thanks for any help.

Ok, breakers are $5 at Home Depot. Won't that fix everything?

But in the meantime, your power strip should be rated 15 amps.

According to Google, the average refrigerator draws 725 watts. That's 6.04 amps at 120 volts.

Also also according to Google "A 10 cubic foot freezer will typically use around 1.5 to 2 amps when running. Upon start up, a 10 cubic foot freezer will use around 4.5 to 6 amps."

The "start up" time doesn't last long. But even so, and assuming at worst case it is drawing 6 amps, that is only 12.04 amps total from both the fridge and freezer combined. You should be able to run them both from the power strip. Keep an eye on the power strip for an hour or two and see if it's getting hot. A little warm is OK.

 

[RDKirk]

Uh..... you were going fairly well until you said:



No. Residences have 120 volt and 240 volt circuits. The 120 volt circuits are almost always either 15 amp or 20 amp.

The 240 volt circuits can be 20, 30, 40, 60, 80, or 100 amps, depending on the device being powered.

But all of that is irrelevant, because the power strip being used is good for 15 amps. That's what we are limited to in this case.

Brain fart.

 

[returntosender]

Ok, breakers are $5 at Home Depot. Won't that fix everything?

But in the meantime, your power strip should be rated 15 amps.

According to Google, the average refrigerator draws 725 watts. That's 6.04 amps at 120 volts.

Also also according to Google "A 10 cubic foot freezer will typically use around 1.5 to 2 amps when running. Upon start up, a 10 cubic foot freezer will use around 4.5 to 6 amps."

The "start up" time doesn't last long. But even so, and assuming at worst case it is drawing 6 amps, that is only 12.04 amps total from both the fridge and freezer combined. You should be able to run them both from the power strip. Keep an eye on the power strip for an hour or two and see if it's getting hot. A little warm is OK.

.your smp figures seem really low.