Gregorikos
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Power strip load
- Thread starter returntosender
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- May 28, 2018
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The refrigerator "running load" is pretty much irrelevant concerning breaker tripping. It's the "starting load" that heats things up, which can be 5-10 times the running load momentarily. But if there's a microwave, hair dryer, space heater or other large load on the same circuit with the fridge, even the running load can be a problem.
In practical applications, though, what often happens is the fridge, and whatever other loads, see a reduced 'long line' voltage when current is being drawn —particularly when the fridge is trying to start and draws large amounts of current, the long wiring to the breaker panel can drop the voltage available at the fridge significantly. This can be increased by iffy connections along the way, like backstabbed receptacles and overheated plugs/receptacles. When the voltage drops too low, the fridge can't start and keeps drawing current that keeps the voltage low, until the motor gets hot enough to shut down until it cools and resets (automatically), then tries again. As this is going on, the breaker is drawing more than it can handle for very long and after a while shuts off and has to be manually reset.
(The breaker becomes 'shot' as a result of constant overheating, and sometimes from the contacts inside the breaker getting burned out. Also, cheaper (generic —yes, Square D and Cutler Hammer also make their Homeline (HOM) and BR breakers that fit GE and Murray etc.) panels have a habit of not making a good connection in the back tangs of the breakers to the panel. This shows up when the building contractor didn't cover the panel when making dust/ painting, in the room. Square D's QO line and Cutler Hammer's CH line have a better contact material which is shaped to grind through the trash on the panel connection point, and to handle higher temperature. (Note: QO and CH breakers will not fit each other's panels, nor fit the generic panels such as GE, Murray etc.))
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- May 30, 2020
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- May 30, 2020
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The moral of the story is I shouldn't be running that strip on the same line as the fridge and freezer. There is much more on the line also but I have no other place for them.
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- May 30, 2020
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So I decided to put the fridge back on it's socket and run the extension on the freezer on a totally separate socket not even in the kitchen. I figure the fridge seems to run so much more. It will tie tied in with the strip that has several things on it but none run simultaneously.
Thanks so much for everyone's help
Thanks so much for everyone's help
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- May 30, 2020
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The bad news is it Blew again so they each are on their own line again.
The breaker getting hot and shutting down seems to be what's is happening as someone pointed out although I don't know why it isn't tripping. The socket that they were plugged in is not exactly stable and could be the problem. Well nothing is in it now. I do hope all settles down. It's not easy pulling the fridge and freezer in and out so many times. It might give me muscles
The breaker getting hot and shutting down seems to be what's is happening as someone pointed out although I don't know why it isn't tripping. The socket that they were plugged in is not exactly stable and could be the problem. Well nothing is in it now. I do hope all settles down. It's not easy pulling the fridge and freezer in and out so many times. It might give me muscles
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