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Gwar.......nippy pup

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Jenna

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Hey there....

Does anyone out there have any ideas on how to overcome the nippiness of puppyhood? My pup is a big pup at about 50 lbs. or so. He is a chocolate lab, about 5 months old. Anywho, he gets to excited around my two year old, and he bites her. The only reason why he is still alive is that I know he isn't meaning to hurt her. Still, I'm afraid that if this doesn't stop and he thinks that he can still bite on her, he's gonna find himself as fresh ground dog-meat. I don't mean to sound mean. I luv that obnoxious dog, but I am at my wits end at how to get him to leave her alone. I can handle him accidentally knocking her down, and even stealing her peanut butter sandwiches, but I can't have him biting her.

Any and all help/tips are appreciated.....
 

IvoryRain

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There are several things with this - first of all, if you turn the dog into a shelter and describe him as he is, though the behavior is human error (lack of training) chances are he'd not go up for adoption but be euthanized instead.

If you feel you can't handle him, contact the breeder and see if they would take him back. If they won't, with the dog still being a bit young he may be able to go into a rescue. They'd be more likely to understand the behavior is normal for an untrained dog.

At no point should your child be left alone with the dog as accidents could happen.

You will have to work with training, and if you don't have time but want to save the family unit, you could find a trainer willing to work with the dog off-site.

Take the time to look through this link: (make sure to see the detailed site index)

http://wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/
 
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Jenna

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As it is, I haven't really considered getting rid of him. It isn't Fred's fault that he doesn't know any better. Shoot, I know that I'd be confused if I were him. That girl eggs him on like nobody's business, but when he gets too excited, that is when we have problems. I don't know who to holler at more. *shakes head* Of course, that is what I get in having a puppy and a two year old at one time. I think it would be easier if he was a little dog, but he's big enough that she tries to ride him. lol That aside, he is really jealous of my attention, and I think that that adds a lot to it. If he sees anyone "taking me away from him", then he forces his way into the middle of the situation, making himself a 50 lb. lap dog or bed partner. He has jealousy issues...... lol
 
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lucypevensie

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Obedience training classes!!!

An out-of-control jealous "nipping" dog will eventually have no qualms about becoming a biting dog.

Seriously, don't take chances with your daughter, whether your dog has evil intentions or not. I'm not trying to scare you or make you think he'll turn into a maiming machine. But dog bites are very serious injuries. That's why I recommend obedience classes. he needs to know who's boss (not him).
 
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SnowOwlMoon

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Obedience classes! Your pup is old enough for them, and needs them. NEVER leave the dog and child together unsupervised. If you can't physically be in the room with them, watching them every second, they cannot be together. Don't let your daughter egg the dog on. She is old enough at 2 to begin to learn how to behave around dogs (I know a woman who breeds German Shepherds, and her 4 year old granddaughter can handle her 70 and 80 lb dogs, because the child was taught from infancy how to behave around them).

One way to stop nipping is to react the same way the pups siblings would, if they were nipped--yelp, and walk away. As soon as teeth touch skin, the game stops immediately. It won't take your pup long to learn that nipping gets no reward, and he will stop.

Until your obedience classes begin start a program of NILIF: Nothing In Life Is Free. Simply put, your dog has to earn everything he gets. Here's a link to help you get started: www.k9deb.com/nilif.htm

Good luck!
 
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YouthPastor

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Obedience trainging!!!

I have been training dogs "on the side" for 10 years.

Look for a dog training school that des NOT ues treats for basic obedience. I could go into the reasoning - and will if asked.

Puppy bitting, as some like to call it, is still bitting! and it needs to be stopped!

If you are interested PM me and I will try and help you in the short term (it can be solved fairly easily if you are willing to do what it takes (NOT HURTING THE DOG)

But obediance training is a must - trainign without food as a motivation!
 
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SnowOwlMoon

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YouthPastor said:
Obedience trainging!!!

I have been training dogs "on the side" for 10 years.

Look for a dog training school that des NOT ues treats for basic obedience. I could go into the reasoning - and will if asked.

Puppy bitting, as some like to call it, is still bitting! and it needs to be stopped!

If you are interested PM me and I will try and help you in the short term (it can be solved fairly easily if you are willing to do what it takes (NOT HURTING THE DOG)

But obediance training is a must - trainign without food as a motivation!

Just curious--what is your reason for not using treats during training. I have trained dogs both ways--without treats, and with--and for a dog that's motivated by food, treats can help. I have also used toys, rather than treats, as my GSD is not always food motivated. Why not use treats, or toys, as a motivator?
 
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YouthPastor

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We use treats for advanced training - agility, K9 Good citizen etc...

But for basic obedience - we do not. The main reason is that Dogs understand a pecking order. That has never been "taken out" of their physique. Someone has to be the Boss.

We use positve and negative reinforcement. If the Dog does what it is asked to do - it gets praised/petted. If the dog does not do what it is asked - it gets corrected (and praised.. ie tell it to sit - it does not - you make it sit and then praise it).

In addition, using treats "can" result in you needing to carry treats with you. What if your dog does not want the treat? What if your dog is running toward the road and it does not want a snack?

There are a couple other training facilities in are area that do use food - there is a big difference.

let me say though that some dogs do fine using treats.

so with basic obedience - the dog obeys because it understands who the alpha dog is - but also - because of the positive and negative reinforcement.

With agressive dogs - many vets and the other dog training schools will send them to us. He has yet to have an agressive dog that if the owners will be firm and consistent, that has had to be put down.

In no way do we ever hurt ot hit the dogs.
 
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SnowOwlMoon

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YouthPastor said:
We use treats for advanced training - agility, K9 Good citizen etc...

But for basic obedience - we do not. The main reason is that Dogs understand a pecking order. That has never been "taken out" of their physique. Someone has to be the Boss.

We use positve and negative reinforcement. If the Dog does what it is asked to do - it gets praised/petted. If the dog does not do what it is asked - it gets corrected (and praised.. ie tell it to sit - it does not - you make it sit and then praise it).

In addition, using treats "can" result in you needing to carry treats with you. What if your dog does not want the treat? What if your dog is running toward the road and it does not want a snack?

There are a couple other training facilities in are area that do use food - there is a big difference.

let me say though that some dogs do fine using treats.

so with basic obedience - the dog obeys because it understands who the alpha dog is - but also - because of the positive and negative reinforcement.

With agressive dogs - many vets and the other dog training schools will send them to us. He has yet to have an agressive dog that if the owners will be firm and consistent, that has had to be put down.

In no way do we ever hurt ot hit the dogs.

I guess we have a different philosophy on training dogs--nothing wrong with that! I get good results in basic obedience by using a treat to lure the dog into a sit or down, the dog gets the treat and praise. When the dog understands the command, I start using less treats--maybe a treat every other time, then every 5 times. Correction occurs only when the dog understands the command, and chooses to disobey. I've never had a problem with the dog understanding who is boss; we start establishing that from day 1 with NILIF. The dog must earn everything it gets. We don't feed the dogs without putting them in a down-stay first. They don't get petted until they sit.

When I'm training, I carry a "bait bag." I don't mind doing so. If I have a dog who isn't food motivated--my GSD sometimes isn't--I use something else; a toy, or play time, as a reward. We haven't had a problem with the dog running to the road and not coming back, because we train a solid recall. Maybe we've just been lucky, or the dog hasn't been that motivated to keep running. But I have always been able to call the dogs to me. The few times they've slipped out the door or the gate, I've always been able to call them back. They are never let off leash until that recall is solid. We teach the recall by teaching them that being with us is the greatest thing in the world. They are never corrected when they come to us. They are given treats and praise. We teach the recall with treats--reeling in the leash, till they're in front of us, and then treats and praise. And then gradually, removing the treats. But they are always praised and loved on when they return. Both dogs will do anything to hear us say, "Good Dog!"--the treat is a bonus.

Our Airedale mix was adopted from the shelter as a 15 month old, completely untrained, utterly wild dog. He was housebroken--that was the extent of his training. Using treats really helped, especially with the Airedale mix. He is food motivated, so using the treat helped him focus on us, rather than on the dog next to us, or the bird overhead, or the leaf blowing across the ground. Our GSD (a rescue) wasn't even housebroken at 10 months old. He is a very "soft" dog--a verbal correction "Ah-Ah!" will stop him in his tracks. A collar correction, when we first got him, made him shut down. Using treats helped him learn that a correction wasn't the end of the world. He works far better with all positive reinforcement, and very little correction. The Airedale mix is a "harder" dog, and takes hard correction better, and sometimes he needs it! He has the terrier's independant nature.

I am not a professional trainer at all. I'm learning as I go. And I'm not posting this as a criticism of your methods! I'm just finding that I have 2 very different dogs, who respond to training differently, and what worked well for one, didn't for the other. (And the Harrier I used to have was a different dog yet!)
 
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