In respect to clothing, it depends on the item. India produces simple goods like tee shirts and socks. China has greater proficiency in workmanship. Most luxury items are made in a small town in Italy at minimal cost.
The company provides the materials or they can ask them to source it. But the contracts are specific. The fees are determined accordingly.
China has the machinery for mass production. We don’t have it anymore. The majority don’t know how to use it. They have to outsource.
Americans aren’t willing to spend the money. Goods manufactured here are subject to fair wage laws. They’re more expensive and they’ve grown accustomed to cheap items.
For example, I made a dress. That usually requires 3-4 yards of fabric. I chose linen. It was $12.95 a yard. I bought four. Cotton would cost $9-12 dollars. I’m at $52 dollars and I still need thread, a clasp, and a zipper. That’s another $10. We’re at $62 with no labor.
They’d sell it for $125-150 in the store depending on workmanship. Few would pay that. They’ll use cheaper materials and do it by machine. The lower the price the less likely humans have touched it. And the construction differs.
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I made version D and built a custom sleeve to extend the length. The dress requires nine pieces for construction. Manufacturers want to save as much fabric as possible. They won’t cut it like that. They use less cuts when making lower tier items. The machine does everything.
But hand stitches are stronger. Hems are usually done by hand. Stitches can be reinforced through specialized machines to strengthen them. To minimize stress.
Fabric must be washed before proceeding to alleviate shrinkage or bleeding. When things shrink at home it wasn’t done. The same applies to bleeding.
Standards are based on categories. Department stores revealed them. Moderate, better, luxury, etc. Couture is best. Bespoke doesn’t always mean they used the best materials or workmanship. It means the item was fashioned for your form.
They’re not permitted to do the same with couture. They need permission to use the word and must comply with the standards of the governing body. That’s why its so expensive. They use the best and make it in house. They must have ateliers to do it.
Ready to wear doesn’t have that requirement. They’re allowed to outsource. Fast fashion is the same. Most brands make the lion’s share of their profits through accessories. The mark up is greater due to aspirational marketing. The majority are made by machines.
Hermes is a notable exception. They train their craftsmen. But their strategy is deservedness. You must be worthy to carry their bags. Even if you can afford them.
~bella