Anyone care to critique before I show the lady

utdbear

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Did you use a lighting kit? I see that some of them look to have the background blown out and the faces underexposed. It might help you in the future if you have a light kit to invest in a meter and a chart if you don't have one. These look pretty good though.
 
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Picture.Of.Obedience, I'm curious... do you shoot in RAW or jpg? You mentioned noise before, but didn't know if you might have heard about or tried Noise Ninja. It's not that much as a stand-alone, or it also comes with Bibble as a free plugin.

fwiw...
I shoot RAW, never hear of that program, but im going to check it out now
 
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sfs

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I'm coming in late, but I have a few comments. First, I agree with the suggestions about looser cropping. In some cases the tight cropping works (e.g. Land18 and 11), but in other cases it just feels cramped to me (e.g. Land25). Second, for the long term you should think about upgrading your lighting equipment. As I recall, you're using mixed lighting, including long fluorescent bulbs. This combination causes a couple of less than ideal effects. It produces long catch-lights (highlights in the eyes), which I find distracting (e.g. in Land30 or Land35). It also gives you mixed colors of light, e.g. in Land34, where the two sides of each face are (slightly) different colors. This is usually not what you want in a portrait.

Finally, some of the black and white conversions have problems with skin tones. I think the reason it's happening is that you have flat (low contrast) lighting with highly saturated color, along with the mixed color lighting. Whatever the cause, you have lots of colors in the face, and these get translated into B&W as tone gradations that do not correspond to the shape of the face, i.e. do not correspond to highlights and shadows caused by shape. Instead, the skin ends up looking a little mottled (e.g. Land19). Given these color captures, I would use heavy red filtration in converting to B&W, and reduce the contrast and increase the brightness in the final image as well. But I am no expert.

I'm not trying to be critical, by the way -- just trying to provide some technical suggestions, based on little knowledge. You have some fine shots in there, and have done an excellent job posing the subjects and making them comfortable.
 
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I'm coming in late, but I have a few comments. First, I agree with the suggestions about looser cropping. In some cases the tight cropping works (e.g. Land18 and 11), but in other cases it just feels cramped to me (e.g. Land25). Second, for the long term you should think about upgrading your lighting equipment. As I recall, you're using mixed lighting, including long fluorescent bulbs. This combination causes a couple of less than ideal effects. It produces long catch-lights (highlights in the eyes), which I find distracting (e.g. in Land30 or Land35). It also gives you mixed colors of light, e.g. in Land34, where the two sides of each face are (slightly) different colors. This is usually not what you want in a portrait.

Finally, some of the black and white conversions have problems with skin tones. I think the reason it's happening is that you have flat (low contrast) lighting with highly saturated color, along with the mixed color lighting. Whatever the cause, you have lots of colors in the face, and these get translated into B&W as tone gradations that do not correspond to the shape of the face, i.e. do not correspond to highlights and shadows caused by shape. Instead, the skin ends up looking a little mottled (e.g. Land19). Given these color captures, I would use heavy red filtration in converting to B&W, and reduce the contrast and increase the brightness in the final image as well. But I am no expert.

I'm not trying to be critical, by the way -- just trying to provide some technical suggestions, based on little knowledge. You have some fine shots in there, and have done an excellent job posing the subjects and making them comfortable.
I really appreciate your comments! My lighting is nothing to even speak of. I am doing with what I have, and cant afford to invest in anything at all whatsoever right now, but i do have my eye on a few things for the future when money is so sparse.
Again, greatly appreciate the comments.
 
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Boss_BlueAngels

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Photography is all about making do with what resources are available to you. In many respects, having less equipment can make you learn even more about photography. It forces you to get creative with how you obtain certain effects in order to simulate the "real thing." Having said that, I think your shots look really good. She'll e pleased. :)

Since people have been speaking a lot of cropping, I figured I'd pitch in this little bit that I learned...
I really don't mean to beat a dead horse to death, but with regard to cropping a friend and colleague of mine when critiquing some of my aviation shots gave me some really great advice. He said if you're going to crop, make it look intentional. The pictures he was speaking of were full frame shots of airplanes where just a small portion of wingtip or tail would be cut out. It also went along with pictures of airplanes on the ground, where I was in full control of my proximity to the subject and could compose however I wanted. So now I know if I want to feature some nose artwork, don't include half of the airplane in the picture, either show the full thing, or provide a tight crop of the artwork.
 
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lisah

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What I like about these is their expressiveness. I am also especially fond of black and white photos. They have such a classic feel to them.

I don't like to critique colors or tones because I am never certain if my monitor is calibrated correctly. I know that often times what I upload looks different than what photoshop shows me. I haven't a clue as to why either.
 
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rdale

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I don't like to critique colors or tones because I am never certain if my monitor is calibrated correctly. I know that often times what I upload looks different than what photoshop shows me. I haven't a clue as to why either.

You need a colorimeter, there are other brands out there, but I have an older Spyder 2 Pro:

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&search-alias=electronics&field-brandtextbin=ColorVision

and

Color Management - some tutes:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/color-management1.htm

Part 1: Concept & Overview
Part 2: Color Spaces
Part 3: Color Space Conversion
 
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Cotmweasel

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you could also try masking them, and boost the brightness/contrast :)

Thats how I like to do them. It works pretty well (an example)

Before:

2911473995_5ec5359580_b.jpg


After:

2910748559_759bfe9e20_b.jpg


Now, I'm not perfect at it. But it adds a ton to the image. I can't find the video where I learned how to do it, but you can google it and find tons of great videos showing how.
 
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c71clark

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You can get a perfectly functional and effective 2-light strobe kit for about $400, and it comes with umbrella's, stands, and a bag. You can get a 1-light kit even cheaper. Don't feel like you need to get 800 watt/second lights either. I do everything with either a single 580EX2 speedlight with mini softbox attached, 2 160 w/s strobes in softboxes, or a single DIY daylight balanced 300 watt (1,000 watt tungsten equivalent) fluorescent kit in a softbox.

But, if money is really tight, you can easily get access tot he most powerful light in the galaxy.... the sun! Set up next to a nice big window, no direct light please, and use a white sheet or white foamcore board to bounce the incoming light for fill.

The key is contrast and shadow. You need shadow to define shape and contours. It needs to be a big light source so the shadow edges are soft. Focus on the eye, and for those kind of pics, using a wide aperture is nice because it blurs out the background a little, making the people the focus (no pun intended) of the image.

Great start! Keep practicing!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/c71clark/sets/72157600585629503/
 
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