Fleas!!!!!

If they are outside kitties use a flea collar, they will keep the fleas off of your cats, and they should be changed every couple of months. They are not that costly either.
Jeff the Finn

I don't know if something like this is available for cats but my Dog takes Sentinel. This is a heartworm pill that also prevents fleas. He's an indoor/outdoor dog and we've never had a flea problem.

I don't know if this is the cheapest option but I've never had much luck with flea collars.

get rid of the kitties!...just joking!

I have seen those little tubes of anti-flea drops that you sprinkle on your cats/dogs, the fleas are supposed to take off cos they don't like the stuff.

I hope that this article helps you out. Petsmart.com article

Flea Products: Combatting Fleas on Your Dog or Cat
by Trissauna Larson, D.V.M.


Sprays, Foams, Spot-Ons, Combs
Most pet owners in the United States will have to deal with fleas at some point. When warmer weather approaches, flea populations boom. Fleas can leave your pet with annoying bites, allergic skin irritation, tapeworms or anemia. Many products are available through stores and veterinary clinics to help a pet owner win the war on fleas. Holistic remedies are also available.

Combs
Great for puppies and kittens who are too young for chemicals.

Collars
Made with insecticides to kill adult fleas or insect growth regulators (IGR) which prevent flea eggs from hatching. Used alone, it's often not enough to keep fleas under control.

Powders
Most have insecticides that kill adult fleas, but can be messy to use.

Sprays and Foams
Sprays and foams contain insecticides, and may also have an IGR. These work well, but frequent applications are usually necessary.

Shampoos and Dips
Most have action against adult fleas. Shampoos generally offer no flea-killing ability after 24 hours. Dips may kill fleas for a few days, but can contain potent chemicals. For these reasons, I recommend using a mild shampoo and having dips done by veterinary clinics or groomers only.

Over-The-Counter (OTC) Spot-Ons
Dogs: Bio Spot, Control, Power Spot are examples of liquid insecticides which are squeezed onto the skin of pets to kill adult fleas for up to one month. Some products also have an IGR.

Cats: OTC spot-on products for cats generally have only an IGR, so won't kill adult fleas. Spot-on products for dogs may contain insecticides that are toxic or fatal to cats. Read labels carefully!

Veterinary-only Products

Program
Program is given once a month, orally, or as an injection for cats every six months. It prevents flea eggs from developing, but does nothing to kill existing adult fleas.

Veterinary Spot-Ons
Advantage, used once monthly, and Frontline, used every 1-3 months, kill adult fleas without using traditional insecticides. Frontline is my favorite because of the long action and the ability to kill ticks. The main disadvantage is cost, which can be up to five times higher than OTC products. I feel the safety and effectiveness of these products is worth it.

Revolution
Brand new to the market, Revolution is a prescription spot-on product for dogs and cats. It kills adult fleas and their eggs, in addition to mites and worms. It is also a heartworm preventative. Flea control must be tailored to each pet and owner. Pets, home, and yard must all be part of the treatment plan. Try different products to find the ones that work best for you and your pet. Most importantly, read all label directions carefully and consult your veterinarian for recommendations.




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Dr. Larson was born and raised in California in the San Francisco Bay Area. She graduated with her DVM degree from the University of California at Davis in 1996. After graduation she did an one year internship in small animal medicine with The Sacramento Animal Medical Group. Since 1997, Dr. Larson has been working as a relief veterinarian, filling in at hospitals in the Sacramento area. She sees cats and dogs exclusively in practice and has two cats of her own at home.


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Information and advice contained on this site is for your consideration only. Please consult your veterinarian for specific advice concerning the care and treatment of your pet.

I don't have any cats now and it has been awhile since we had any, but I use "Frontline" on our two dogs (indoor/outdoor dogs) once a month liquid. Works great. When we had cats, I found it best to continue checking under the house, if you have a crawl space, for cat fleas multiply well there.
Ken

if they are really little dishwashing liquid, if they aren't really little watered down pine sol

u can't 'cheaply' get rid of fleas...

if u wanna get rid of em effectivly, i suggest front line. cuz its waterproof.

all the flea colars, shampoo's, powders, etc r a joke, and a waste of time and money.

frontline is bout 40$ a 4/pack..for 4 monthes. but worth every penny.

animals, just like people cost money. but they're worth it..more then people r

AlabamaMan said:

We have 2 new kittens and they stay outside. They have fleas, what is one of the cheapest and best ways to get rid of them?

Click to expand...

Frontline or Advantage. . . in my opinion the best thing. Nothing works but them. I had problems with fleas until I put both my cat and dog on it. No fleas no more.

If you still have the kitties, try this all natural flea repellant:


Collect a batch of citrus fruit. Oranges, lemons, grapefruit, limes, they
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]all work, and I've used them in combination.[/size][/font]


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[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]probably be a good idea to remove all of the inside pulp, but it's a lot[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]more work, and I don't bother.[/size][/font]

[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]Put all of your squeezed-out rinds in a big pot, and fill it with water.[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]Bring it to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for several hours.[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]I have turned it off and let it sit when leaving the house, then turned it[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]back on.[/size][/font]

[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]When the rinds have reached a pretty limp, squishy state, scoop them up[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]and mash them to sqeeze out as much liquid as possible. Return that liquid[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]to the big pot, and continue to simmer for a few more hours, allowing the[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]liquid to cook down to some degree. Cool the liquid, and pour through a[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]fine strainer or cheesecloth to remove the pulp. Bottle it up and[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]refrigerate. In case you end up with more than you can use in a reasonable[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]time, the stuff freezes well, and works fine when defrosted. (Remember,[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]this stuff doesn't have "preservatives.")[/size][/font] [font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]We add a quarter of a cup or so to the bathwater when we mix up the [/size][/font][font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]shampoo concentrate. It's never caused a problem for any of our pets, does[/size][/font] [font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]not stain coats, is NOT sticky and kills fleas on contact. I would doubt[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]that there would be any residual action -- there rarely is with organic[/size][/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica][size=-1]pesticides.[/size][/font]