Special cookies for a special season: Authentic ‘Bones of the Dead’

One of the many great joys of the Catholic faith is the way that feast days and holidays demarcate the year and provide us with seasons that are meaningful and connected to tradition. In a less busy world, I would cook a themed meal for every Catholic feast day and invite my friends and family over to celebrate. In our more constrained one, I recommend an All Saints’ and All Souls’ Dayshowstopper — the crunchy spice cookies shaped like bones and known in Italy as “Ossa dei Morti,” or “Bones of the Dead.”

A person’s association with Italian desserts will depend on his or her frame of reference. Those who happen to live near an authentic Italian bakery probably already love the country’s formal and lavish pastry tradition. Those whose only exposure is the dry and tasteless “Italian assortment” cookie tray from the supermarket will be less enthusiastic. Both, however, will recognize that Italy’s cream fillings, rum soaks, fried shells, piped doughs, chocolate dips and green maraschino cherries aren’t exactly home cooking. Most recipes for supposed Italian specialities, especially cookies, don’t come close to the real thing.

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