MarkRohfrietsch

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I have been looking at the possibility of of buying a revolver for no other reason but to open up a couple other completion opportunities. I have been doing a lot of research and consensus was S & W and Ruger GP100 are the best quality for the money, and quite comparable. Some other cheaper options are out there; Armenius and Alpha Proj to name the two most common ones. .357 is desirable but shooting .38 SWC or HBWC will be the loads of choice as I will only be shooting paper.

I took the plunge. Ordered a brand new Ruger GP100 4.2" barrel, blued with rubber grip. It was a counter gun from a gun store, so it does have a bit of a drag mark on the cylinder (it would have one the first week I owned it regardless). They list for just around $950-1000 up here; I got this one for $600.00.

I'm excited. I thinking Safariland Speed Loaders? Thoughts?

upload_2019-11-6_18-31-50.png
 
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I have been looking at the possibility of of buying a revolver for no other reason but to open up a couple other completion opportunities. I have been doing a lot of research and consensus was S & W and Ruger GP100 are the best quality for the money, and quite comparable. Some other cheaper options are out there; Armenius and Alpha Proj to name the two most common ones. .357 is desirable but shooting .38 SWC or HBWC will be the loads of choice as I will only be shooting paper.

I took the plunge. Ordered a brand new Ruger GP100 4.2" barrel, blued with rubber grip. It was a counter gun from a gun store, so it does have a bit of a drag mark on the cylinder (it would have one the first week I owned it regardless). They list for just around $950-1000 up here; I got this one for $600.00.

I'm excited. I thinking Safariland Speed Loaders? Thoughts?

View attachment 266273

I own this revolver, paid about the same, it's a great gun. I have Five Star Speed loaders, and they are excellent, for both my GP-100 357, and my LCR 38. The stock sights on both are junk though, so I bought a High-viz, for my 357, and a Tritium for my 38.
 
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marineimaging

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I have been looking at the possibility of of buying a revolver for no other reason but to open up a couple other completion opportunities. I have been doing a lot of research and consensus was S & W and Ruger GP100 are the best quality for the money, and quite comparable. Some other cheaper options are out there; Armenius and Alpha Proj to name the two most common ones. .357 is desirable but shooting .38 SWC or HBWC will be the loads of choice as I will only be shooting paper.

I took the plunge. Ordered a brand new Ruger GP100 4.2" barrel, blued with rubber grip. It was a counter gun from a gun store, so it does have a bit of a drag mark on the cylinder (it would have one the first week I owned it regardless). They list for just around $950-1000 up here; I got this one for $600.00.

I'm excited. I thinking Safariland Speed Loaders? Thoughts?

View attachment 266273
Great deal for the GP100. I put my money into a Ruger Super Blackhawk in .44 magnum. I already have an old school .38 S&W Combat Masterpiece with honed target trigger, but I needed a .357 with a hunting barrel. (6" or longer). The S&W's and Rugers were nearly or over 1000.00. I found the Taurus Tracker SS 6.5" for just over 4 Benjamins. The thing about it..., it shoots GOOD and with the ported barrel the recoil is mild.

Message_1555465718320~3.jpg
 
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MarkRohfrietsch

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I'm still waiting on the transfer, but am thinking of reloading, and which direction I should go.

Here in Canada, I will only be shooting paper (maybe steel) with mine. My intent was to run plated HBWC bullets in either .38 or .357 brass; but I have been told that if I want to run HBWC bullets, I will need to champfer the chambers to facilitate speed loading.

Interesting fact; our provincial and municipal police, back in the 70's and 80's carried .38 Special +P lead SWCs. An OPP Sargent told me they used them for better penetration than HP ammo; good stopping power and they were "the cheapest +P ammo available". LOL. If only our governments could be that fiscally responsible today!

A couple of others have suggested 158 gr. SWC cast bullets instead to ease loading and still give good accuracy.

What are your thoughts?
 
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marineimaging

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I'm still waiting on the transfer, but am thinking of reloading, and which direction I should go.

Here in Canada, I will only be shooting paper (maybe steel) with mine. My intent was to run plated HBWC bullets in either .38 or .357 brass; but I have been told that if I want to run HBWC bullets, I will need to champfer the chambers to facilitate speed loading.

Interesting fact; our provincial and municipal police, back in the 70's and 80's carried .38 Special +P lead SWCs. An OPP Sargent told me they used them for better penetration than HP ammo; good stopping power and they were "the cheapest +P ammo available". LOL. If only our governments could be that fiscally responsible today!

A couple of others have suggested 158 gr. SWC cast bullets instead to ease loading and still give good accuracy.

What are your thoughts?
I am reloading .357 and .45 right now with SWC for hunting and practice and used them to practice and qualify when I was on the police force. They worked great for speed loading but as for altering the chambers on the cylinder, I would not unless I had two cylinders for that same gun. One thing to know is that to avoid leading up your barrel you can't run them hot like jacketed rounds but for competition you won't be anyway. Some hard cast will allow you to run up to 1000fps but don't go above that unless your bullet maker specifies.
 
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MarkRohfrietsch

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I am reloading .357 and .45 right now with SWC for hunting and practice and used them to practice and qualify when I was on the police force. They worked great for speed loading but as for altering the chambers on the cylinder, I would not unless I had two cylinders for that same gun. One thing to know is that to avoid leading up your barrel you can't run them hot like jacketed rounds but for competition you won't be anyway. Some hard cast will allow you to run up to 1000fps but don't go above that unless your bullet maker specifies.
That's what I was thinking; starting about 10% below minimum and working my way up; about 3.4 gr. HP38 behind 158 gr. LSWC. Good place to start? I'm thinking about 580 fps out of the short barrel.
 
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Aryeh Jay

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That's what I was thinking; starting about 10% below minimum and working my way up; about 3.4 gr. HP38 behind 158 gr. LSWC. Good place to start? I'm thinking about 580 fps out of the short barrel.

You should get a bit more than 580 fps out of a four inch barrel with 158 grain bullets, even .38 Specials. I would get 690-720fps out of four inches with factory 158 grain 38s.
 
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MarkRohfrietsch

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You should get a bit more than 580 fps out of a four inch barrel with 158 grain bullets, even .38 Specials. I would get 690-720fps out of four inches with factory 158 grain 38s.
I was looking at copper jacketed data; it seems that with the lead SWC, that lighter loads still yield respectable velocities:

upload_2019-11-19_20-30-4.png


I will likely start around 2.6 gr.
 
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I was looking at copper jacketed data; it seems that with the lead SWC, that lighter loads still yield respectable velocities:

View attachment 266948

I will likely start around 2.6 gr.

Will you be casting your own? I used to cast .44 Special and added a little tin to the mix. It reduced barrel leading a lot!
 
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First, the bottom line is that the only thing that matters is what you and your gun do on the day of competition. If it works, good job!

However, since we are talking about reloading I would like to offer something to think about. First, I am not saying that HP38 and Win231 won't work. Not at all. I use both of them in .380 and 9mm because it is more economical to use less of a faster burning powder to get the same pressures. However, when I start getting into the more voluminous .357 and .44 cases I start looking for loads that give me more powder resulting in less of a void - and always use a magnum primer. (i.e. CCI 350 or 550).

The reason I am making this point is that an old time cowboy loader stated that if you want better consistency try to use a powder that fills more of the case. The best load is the one that produces the correct pressure (translating to speed which also means accuracy) with a full case leaving no void. If the powder is in contact with the primer, it will always ignite the powder with the same dynamic. Furthermore, minor variations will have less effect on the pressure/speed. Thinking in the extremes, a 1% variation of 2.9 grains of HP38 has a greater impact than 1% of 5.8 of Unique due to the way it plays out in the volume to burn rate ratio.

Next, a magnum primer has enough potential energy to push the bullet down the barrel. It may not clear the barrel, but it can start moving the bullet without any powder. So, if you have a very small amount of powder in the case and you are holding your gun downward, then bring it up to shoot, the powder is all at the front of the case. The flash has to jump to the front of the case to ignite the powder which means pressure has already started building to push the bullet, breaking the crimp.

Again, the final score is all that really matters. But if you don't see consistency with the faster powders in the larger case volumes, try a powder that will fill it more yet produce the same results.
 

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MarkRohfrietsch

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First, the bottom line is that the only thing that matters is what you and your gun do on the day of competition. If it works, good job!

However, since we are talking about reloading I would like to offer something to think about. First, I am not saying that HP38 and Win231 won't work. Not at all. I use both of them in .380 and 9mm because it is more economical to use less of a faster burning powder to get the same pressures. However, when I start getting into the more voluminous .357 and .44 cases I start looking for loads that give me more powder resulting in less of a void - and always use a magnum primer. (i.e. CCI 350 or 550).

The reason I am making this point is that an old time cowboy loader stated that if you want better consistency try to use a powder that fills more of the case. The best load is the one that produces the correct pressure (translating to speed which also means accuracy) with a full case leaving no void. If the powder is in contact with the primer, it will always ignite the powder with the same dynamic. Furthermore, minor variations will have less effect on the pressure/speed. Thinking in the extremes, a 1% variation of 2.9 grains of HP38 has a greater impact than 1% of 5.8 of Unique due to the way it plays out in the volume to burn rate ratio.

Next, a magnum primer has enough potential energy to push the bullet down the barrel. It may not clear the barrel, but it can start moving the bullet without any powder. So, if you have a very small amount of powder in the case and you are holding your gun downward, then bring it up to shoot, the powder is all at the front of the case. The flash has to jump to the front of the case to ignite the powder which means pressure has already started building to push the bullet, breaking the crimp.

Again, the final score is all that really matters. But if you don't see consistency with the faster powders in the larger case volumes, try a powder that will fill it more yet produce the same results.
Great advice, and points well made. I have a ship-load of HP38; it is worth considering consistent results, with a bulkier powder.
 
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Love me my wheel guns! Always wanted a top break 45 LC. Maybe a Schofield. They are just so georgous! Long, sleek, dark blue steel, matt finish walnut, clickity clickity clickity hammer.

I want one. Might have to be my retirement gift to myself.
 
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MarkRohfrietsch

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I have been looking at the possibility of of buying a revolver for no other reason but to open up a couple other completion opportunities. I have been doing a lot of research and consensus was S & W and Ruger GP100 are the best quality for the money, and quite comparable. Some other cheaper options are out there; Armenius and Alpha Proj to name the two most common ones. .357 is desirable but shooting .38 SWC or HBWC will be the loads of choice as I will only be shooting paper.

I took the plunge. Ordered a brand new Ruger GP100 4.2" barrel, blued with rubber grip. It was a counter gun from a gun store, so it does have a bit of a drag mark on the cylinder (it would have one the first week I owned it regardless). They list for just around $950-1000 up here; I got this one for $600.00.

I'm excited. I thinking Safariland Speed Loaders? Thoughts?

View attachment 266273
First, the bottom line is that the only thing that matters is what you and your gun do on the day of competition. If it works, good job!

However, since we are talking about reloading I would like to offer something to think about. First, I am not saying that HP38 and Win231 won't work. Not at all. I use both of them in .380 and 9mm because it is more economical to use less of a faster burning powder to get the same pressures. However, when I start getting into the more voluminous .357 and .44 cases I start looking for loads that give me more powder resulting in less of a void - and always use a magnum primer. (i.e. CCI 350 or 550).

The reason I am making this point is that an old time cowboy loader stated that if you want better consistency try to use a powder that fills more of the case. The best load is the one that produces the correct pressure (translating to speed which also means accuracy) with a full case leaving no void. If the powder is in contact with the primer, it will always ignite the powder with the same dynamic. Furthermore, minor variations will have less effect on the pressure/speed. Thinking in the extremes, a 1% variation of 2.9 grains of HP38 has a greater impact than 1% of 5.8 of Unique due to the way it plays out in the volume to burn rate ratio.

Next, a magnum primer has enough potential energy to push the bullet down the barrel. It may not clear the barrel, but it can start moving the bullet without any powder. So, if you have a very small amount of powder in the case and you are holding your gun downward, then bring it up to shoot, the powder is all at the front of the case. The flash has to jump to the front of the case to ignite the powder which means pressure has already started building to push the bullet, breaking the crimp.

Again, the final score is all that really matters. But if you don't see consistency with the faster powders in the larger case volumes, try a powder that will fill it more yet produce the same results.
My Ruger finally arrived, even nicer than it looked in the sellers photos. I am a happy boy.

Since I have so much HP38 I thought I would give it a try. I'm using a Lee Pro1000 progressive press with the stock auto-disk pro powder measure. The lowest weight it will throw of the HP38 is 3.2 gr. so that is where I started with 50 of each; 3.2, 3.4, 3.7, 4.1, all loaded with locally made DRG 158gr LSWCs in front of Sellers & Bellott small pistol primers. No misfires or hang fires with any of the loads.

Accuracy with all is amazing and very consistent. All of these loads are very mild shooting in the Ruger, but there is certainly more recoil with 4.1 and 3.7, and both these loads are flat shooting out to 25 yards, while 3.2 seems to shoot about an inch lower at 25 than they do at 10. For now, I will be loading 3.7 because of the flatter shooting at these distances.

Having primers seated properly is more critical in this revolver than any of my Semi Autos; the clearance is so tight that even the slightest amount of protrusion will lock the gun up. I am considering hand priming, and removing the de-primer pin on my press.

After checking accuracy from a rest, I tried double action-free hand. Again, very impressed with accuracy.

Our retired chief range officer showed up at the club and tried it out and he loves it. I got to fire his 4" S & W Highway Patrolman which had a trigger job done on it many hears ago. My Ruger has a nice trigger; his patrolman has a better trigger; but I did not shoot it any better LOL, Not sure what powder charge he is using, but his is loading locally made LFWC in front of CCI small pistol primers and Bullseye. His gun also seemed to have a bit more felt recoil.

Regardless, I am very happy with it!
 
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Darkhorse

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Bought this a couple of weeks ago. Smith and Wesson 686 5" Performance Center. Gonna handload some rounds this weekend for it.
DSC_0004-e1511815675305.jpg

I notice that the cylinder doesn't have the fluted indentations in between the chambers; do you know why?
 
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